Coreenna

One of the most frequently asked questions we’ve got is those on the use of henna for natural hair coloring.  I notice that more and more people are turning to natural, herbal alternatives to color their hair as they begin to wise up to the harmful effects of synthetic hair dyes on their hair and their health in the long run.

The following is extracted from my book, Nature’s Spa: DIY Beauty Treatments:

Henna Magic

Whenever I use henna for my hair treatment, I’ll feel as though I’m communing not just with Nature but with thousands of years of human history and a multitude of cultures. For henna has been used in beauty care and medicine for a long long time by many cultures throughout the world. To add to the magical quality of henna, I have read from an old herbal journal that henna is one of those rare herbs which is aligned with the Earth’s polar fields and thus attract the powerful magnetic forces of the Earth. Perhaps this is why henna is also used in many sacred and important ceremonies to anoint and bless the people.

Getting to know henna

There is a lot of misconception surrounding henna. To clear the air once and for all, let us take a closer look at the various types of plants that are called henna.

Henna (Lawsonia Inermis or Lawsonia alba)

Strictly speaking, Lawsonia Inermis is the true henna. The leaves of lawsonia inermis are collected, dried and ground into a fine, greenish powder. As the leaves contain a natural red-orange dye, it will impart a reddish shade to the skin and hair.

Neutral/non-colouring henna (Cassia obovata/senna)

The so-called non-colouring or neutral henna is actually a totally different species of plant called Cassia obovata or senna. Appearance-wise, it resembles lawsonia inermis as it also comes in the form of a greenish powder. As its name implies, neutral henna does not give off any colour. However, it is great for hair care as it helps to condition the hair and scalp, control dandruff, and keeps the hair healthy and shiny.

Black Henna (Indigo or Indigofera tinctoria)

Again, black henna is not the same type of plant as lawsonia inermis, but its processed powder resembles lawsonia inermis in form and colour. Black henna does not impart a black colour though, but a deep, purplish blue.

Therefore strictly speaking, a product can only claim to be 100% pure henna if the content comprises only lawsonia inermis. And if it contains only pure lawsonia inermis, the only colour it will give is various shades of red, not black, brown or mahogany, and most definitely not blond!

Naturally, not everyone desires to colour their hair red. Hence, lawsonia inermis is often mixed with indigofera tinctoria, cassia obovata and other herbs such as rhubarb, amla, saffron, turmeric, cloves, paprika etc, to produce a wide spectrum of colours, ranging from strawberry blond to black.

Buyers Beware!

I buy henna, indigo and senna directly from the same trusted supplier who has been supplying herbs to my company for a few years. Everyone who uses the pure, natural mixes has nothing but praises (although I must admit that for beginners, it take a bit of time to get the perfect colour for themselves). Hence, when an acquaintance complained that henna has destroyed her and her sisters’ hair, I found out that she had used some premixed henna bought from a neighbourhood store.

I took a walk the other day to check out the various brands of henna available in the shops. Some brands come with proper ingredients labeling so that at one glance, I could tell that they contain PPD. Others do not list their ingredients at all so one could only guess at their contents. It was then I realized why henna has somehow developed such a bad reputation.

While there are good brands that use only pre-blended natural herbs and henna, there are also brands out there that mix henna with synthetic dyes and metallic salts like lead acetate, iron, copper, bismuth, nickel etc to achieve various colours. The latter is also known as compound henna. Using compound henna on your hair will only cause it to become brittle, damaged, discoloured (especially if you use it on bleached or permed hair). Your hair will feel as if it has been coated with a layer of yucky stuff that makes your hair look really dull and lifeless. Pure, 100% natural henna/herbal blends will never do that! On the contrary, they will only make your hair lustrous, strong and healthy, and this is the noteworthy difference between pure, natural hair colouring products and synthetic dyes.

Another synthetic hair dye to look out for is para-phenylenediamine (PPD). Usually found in so-called black or dark brown henna, PPD is an aromatic amine compound found commonly in almost every hair colour dye on the market.  Usually, the darker the hair dye colour, the greater the amount of PPD.  Therefore, hennas which are supposed to dye the hair black usually contain the highest levels of PPD. A few brands I saw stated the level of PPD to be in the region of 5%.

This came as a shock to me because it totally contradicts the true spirit of ‘henna-ing’ your hair. In the first place, people choose henna because they want a safer and superior alternative to synthetic chemical dyes.

PPD has been listed as being known as one of many contact allergens. Symptoms listed are: Irritation pharynx, larynx; bronchial asthma; sensitization dermatitis.  Furthermore, when it comes to PPD, the allergic/sensitive reaction may not be immediately apparent. Sometimes, it may take days and months for the allergic reaction to appear. Therefore, the standard 24-hour patch test is not really useful when it comes to testing for allergic reactions against PPD.

What Can Be Done

Unfortunately, from the packaging alone, it is not always easy to distinguish between a genuine natural mix and one contains a cocktail of metallic salts and synthetic dyes. This is because not all brands come with ingredients labels, and almost every brand will claim to contain only 100% henna.

Unless you know of reputable brands, the only way to be absolutely certain that you are using a truly natural product is to blend it yourself. Buy your henna, indigo and senna, and other herbs separately (from a trusted source, of course!) and mix them together to achieve the colour you desire. It may sound like a lot of work but it is actually a very fun and exciting process.

How often should you henna your hair?

This depends on how long the colour stays on your hair. Usually, the colour lasts about two to three months, therefore, most people henna their hair about once every two to three months.